Techniques·Step-by-step guide·6 min read

How Do You Foilyage Hair Step by Step?

The short answer

Foilyage is balayage painted onto foil: paint the section freehand, fold the foil, and let the enclosed heat drive a cleaner lift than open-air painting. Work in half-inch sections, paint the underside first, and keep the product at least a quarter inch off the scalp.

Updated

Step by step

  1. 1Section the hair into four, then take half-inch diagonal slices from the mid-length down.
  2. 2Place the foil, paint the underside of the section first, then fold the section back and paint the top.
  3. 3Feather the product upward with short strokes so the top edge is diffuse rather than a line.
  4. 4Keep the product a quarter inch clear of the scalp. Foil close to the scalp accelerates development and drops the root hot.
  5. 5Fold the foil closed and move on. Do not re-open a folded foil to check development.

Where foilyage beats balayage

Foil traps heat, so the lift is faster and less prone to drying out on the surface. On coarse or resistant hair that resists open-air painting, foilyage is often the difference between a clean level and an orange one.

The trade-off is time. Foilyage on a full head takes noticeably longer than freehand balayage because each section is handled twice.

Frequently asked

Can foilyage be done on the scalp?

Not with lightener on a full head. Foil on scalp traps heat against the skin, which is why placement starts a quarter inch away.

Does foilyage need a toner?

Usually yes. Enclosed heat produces a cleaner level but still leaves warmth that reads yellow at level 8 and above.

Keep reading

Part of Techniques in the S2 Academy.