Colorimetry·Guide·4 min read

How Do You Neutralise Brassy Tones?

The short answer

Neutralise brass with the tone directly opposite the unwanted colour: violet for yellow, blue for orange, and blue-green for a strong orange-red. Mix it as a toner rather than a permanent colour when the level is already correct, and expect to re-tone every four to six weeks as the undertone resurfaces.

Updated

Match the corrective to the tone

What you seeWhat it meansCorrective
Pale yellowLevel 9 to 10 liftViolet toner, short development
Strong yellowLevel 8 liftViolet or pearl-violet toner
OrangeLevel 6 to 7 liftBlue or blue-ash toner
Orange-redLevel 4 to 5 liftBlue-green or teal toner

Why brass keeps coming back

Toner sits on the surface of the cuticle and washes out before the underlying warmth leaves. Brass returning is normal, not a sign the original application failed.

The way to slow it is to reduce exposure: cooler water, a violet or blue maintenance wash once or twice a week, and less heat styling on the lightened sections.

Frequently asked

How often should a blonde be toned?

Every four to six weeks for most clients. Stretching past eight weeks usually means the toner has already gone and the brass is showing.

Can I pre-tone before lightening?

Pre-toning is a colour correction technique rather than routine maintenance. For standard maintenance, tone after the lift.

Keep reading

Part of Colorimetry in the S2 Academy.